If you need a new repo wheel lift, how to build a repo wheel lift is something you should consider. There are many different types of repo wheel lifts that can be purchased. There are also many how to build a repo wheel lifts that you can build yourself.
The repo wheel lift is a portable, self-contained unit that can be installed in any location. This machine lifts the vehicle using a pinion gear driven by an electric motor. The lifting force is transmitted through the wheels to the ground, which makes it possible for one person to operate the machine. The operator controls all aspects of the lift from inside the cab of his truck.
The repo wheel lift uses a standard tow hook on the front axle of your truck and you hook it up just like you would with your tow rope or strap when pulling out stuck vehicles. When you hook up, the truck’s drive train powers the hydraulic pump which then raises your vehicle safely off its wheels and lets you get underneath it to work on whatever needs fixing.
- 4′ x 8′ sheet of plywood
- 4′ x 8′ sheet of plywood for the base
- 1-1/2″ exterior screw eye bolt with nut (2)
- 4″ exterior screw eye bolt with nut (2)
- 3/8″ drill bit and drill (or larger, if necessary)
- 3/8″ bit and drill
- 3/8″ wood screws (1-1/2″) or deck screws (3″)
- 3/8″ washers, lock washers and nuts (enough to match your eye bolts, if using them)
How to Do It?
If you want to lift a wheel on your repo, it is important to know how to do it safely. Some people think that they can just go out and jack up the wheel and replace the tire, but this is not always the case.
The first step is to get underneath your car and locate the jack point. The jack point will be located near one of your wheel wells on either side of your vehicle. You should be able to see a bolt sticking out from under your car where you can attach your hydraulic jack.
Once you have found the bolt, place your hydraulic jack beneath it and secure it with a lug nut or cotter pin. Raise the jack until it raises your car just enough so that you can slide beneath it without hitting any part of it on anything else.
When you are beneath your vehicle, look for another bolt on the same side as before, but this time on top of one of your tire rims (the rim is where all four tires meet). Attach another cotter pin or lug nut here as well so that when you lower the jack back down onto its original position, nothing will move out of place once again.
Gather Your Materials
- Gather your materials. You’ll need a wheel lift and a jack stand, as well as a few other tools and supplies.
- Remove the wheel. This can be done with the wheel still on the ground, but it’s easier to do before lifting the car.
- Remove the hubcap and lug nuts from the wheel you’re replacing.
- Place the wheel lift under your vehicle’s axle and bolt it in place with the provided hardware. Ensure that you’re not too close to any exhaust pipes or brake lines with the wheel lift’s base plate when bolting it in place.
- Position your jack stands underneath your vehicle’s frame rail at each corner of where you’d like to work. Lift one side of your car up onto these stands by cranking down on their handles until they’re secure under the frame rails.
- Remove the lug nuts from all four wheels, then remove each wheel using a socket wrench on its outside surface while supporting that side of your vehicle with another jack stand placed next to where you removed them from.
Cut and Weld The Frame
The repo wheel lift is a fairly simple design and can be built using a minimal number of tools. You will need basic welding equipment, a chop saw, grinder and drill press.
Cut and weld the frame. The frame is made up of square tubing that is cut and welded together in a pattern that resembles an X. The front wheels attach to the center part of the cross member, while the rear wheels fit into slots in each side of the cross member. Cut all your pieces from 1-inch square tubing as shown below:
The front cross members should be about 30 inches long; these will form an “X” shape when bolted together. The rear cross members should be about 28 inches long; these will form an “X” shape when bolted together. All four sides should have holes drilled through them for attaching to the axle plates with bolts or cotter pins (see below).
The axle plate will be attached to the rear axle using two sets of bolts through holes drilled in either side of each axle plate (see below). A pair of holes should also be drilled through each end of each axle plate so they can be bolted to the frame (see below).
Attach The Arms
The wheel lift arms attach to the crossbar with large bolts. Slide them into place and secure them using the nuts and washers provided in the kit.
- Attach the lift plate.
The lift plate is a large plate that attaches to the end of each arm by two bolts. The center of this plate has a hole for attaching to your truck’s tongue jack. You may need a friend to help you hold the plate while you align it onto the arms, then tighten down the bolts.
- Attach your tow hooks (optional).
Some wheel lift kits come with tow hooks that can be attached to either side of your truck so you can hook up your trailer without having to disconnect your trailer’s air lines or battery cables
Paint The Finished Product
- Paint the finished product.Remove any dust or debris from the finished product with a dry cloth.
- Paint your wheel lift with an exterior-grade paint designed for metal surfaces. Apply two coats of paint, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly before applying another coat.
- Apply a clear protective coating over your newly painted wheel lift. This will help protect it from rust and other damage that can occur over time.